The Surprising Truth About Fake Bakuchiol: Side Effects and How to Avoid Them

Scientifically Proven Benefits of the Real Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol's efficacy in skincare is well-documented through various scientific studies. Research published in reputable journals such as the International Journal of Cosmetic Science and the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology highlights its multiple skin benefits:
- Anti-aging: Bakuchiol has been shown to significantly reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen production. In a 12-week study it showed 20% reduction in wrinkle depth.
- Hyperpigmentation: 59% reduction in hyperpigmentation after 12 weeks for Sytenol® A Bakuchiol whereas 44% for Retinol.
- Antioxidant properties: It offers protection against oxidative stress and damage caused by UV radiation and environmental pollutants.
- Skin brightening: Bakuchiol helps in diminishing visible signs of sun damage and hyperpigmentation, promoting a more even skin tone.
- Acne treatment: Its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties make bakuchiol effective in managing acne without drying out the skin, as detailed in a study on its impact on acne-affected skin.

Risks of Counterfeit and Fake Bakuchiol Products

The surge in bakuchiol's popularity has unfortunately led to the rise of counterfeit and imitation products on the market. These fraudulent products often contain substandard or incorrect derivative ingredients, which not only fail to provide the desired skin benefits but can also pose risks such as skin irritation or allergic reactions.

P. corylifolia not only contains the bakuchiol molecule, but phototoxic components in the Babchi plant, psoralens and isopsoralens, which increases the potential for ultraviolet radiation related effects when these constituents are not removed. The presence of psoralens and isopsoralens will increase the photosensitivity when they are applied topically. The presence of psoralens can have unintended effects by causing psoralen-based photosensitivity.

The leaf, root, and stems of P. corylifolia contain furocoumarins. A well-known property of furocoumarins when exposed to UV rays is various levels of erythema (skin redness), pigmentation (dark spots) and skin damage.

Purified isolates of only the bakuchiol meroterpene on P. corylifolia is the only beneficial component of this plant when it comes to skincare.

Identifying Genuine Bakuchiol Products

To ensure safety and efficacy, consumers should purchase bakuchiol products from reputable sources. Authentic bakuchiol formulations will typically be backed by scientific research and clear labeling of the ingredient by its INCI name "bakuchiol" on the back of the label.

1. Check the Ingredient List: Genuine bakuchiol products will list the ingredient by its INCI name "Bakuchiol" as an ingredient on the back of the label. Be wary of products that use vague terms like "Babchi plant extract" or "Bakuchi oil," as these may indicate less purity and higher risks of side effects.
2. Understand Common Counterfeits, Fakes and Their Effects:
1. - Pure Bakuchiol: May cause slight redness initially but is generally safe for regular use. Products with this ingredient range from oil serums to lotions and creams, but never a water-based or aqueous serum as bakuchiol is not dismissible in water. This oil has the potential for tinting the formulation a yellow, golden or orange color without the need for synthetic or artificial colorants. Products containing this ingredient displaying any other color would contain synthetic or artificial colorants in their formulations.
2. Less Pure Bakuchiol: Look out for signs of contact dermatitis or photosensitivity, which are common with impure forms. Sadly several companies have started producing the bakuchiol ingredient without purification, rendering an meroterpene that's not purified and contains harmful compounds.
3. P. corylifolia (Babchi) Plant Extract and Whole Plant: These are often misleadingly labeled as bakuchiol but can cause severe photosensitivity, erythema, and blistering. They appear on the market usually in the form of aqueous (water-based) serums colored purple, blue, pink and even green. Because of the hydrophobic nature of real bakuchiol, these products are surely not containing the real bakuchiol meroterpene and should be avoided.
4. Bakuchi/Babchi Oil: A food grade oil mostly used for culinary preparations extracted from the seeds of the plant. This derivative is known to cause phytophotodermatitis, a phototoxic reaction that can lead to painful, blistering eruptions on the skin. They appear on the market moderately or inexpensively priced, in the form of dark brown/amber oils, lotions and creams, in contrast to real bakuchiol containing products which are priced higher as this ingredient is not inexpensive.
3. Purchase from Reputable Sources: Always buy skincare products from reputable companies that provide transparent information about ingredient sourcing, concentration levels, and manufacturing practices. The producers of this pricey ingredient have included a list of reputable sellers on their website bakuchiol.net, which although not complete provides a good starting point.
4. When in doubt: Check with the only producers of this ingredient a company named Sytheon or visit their website bakuchiol.net. They've tested and promote the companies that formulate with their ingredient, and have exposed companies that have mislead consumers with formulations that do not contain the real bakuchiol ingredient, that feature some of the fake ones.

Transparency in sourcing and manufacturing processes is also a hallmark of trustworthy brands.

Bakuchiol stands out as a revolutionary ingredient in the realm of skincare, offering a plant-based alternative to retinol with a multitude of proven skin benefits. As the interest in natural and effective skincare solutions continues to grow, bakuchiol's role is increasingly recognized as essential. However, vigilance against counterfeit products and fakes is crucial for consumers seeking to integrate bakuchiol into their skincare routines safely.

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References

1. Dhaliwal, S et al. “Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing.” The British journal of dermatology vol. 180,2 (2019): 289-296. doi:10.1111/bjd.16918 - https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29947134/ 
2. Najiba Afzal BS, Raja K. Sivamani MD MS AP. "Finding the right Bakuchiol: Choose wisely." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. - https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.15667
3. S. Dhaliwal, I. Rybak, S.R. Ellis, M. Notay, M. Trivedi, W. Burney, A.R. Vaughn, M. Nguyen, P. Reiter, S. Bosanac, H. Yan, N. Foolad, R.K. Sivamani, Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing, British Journal of Dermatology, Volume 180, Issue 2, 1 February 2019, Pages 289–296. - https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918