Retinyl Palmitate

Common Name

Retinyl Palmitate

INCI

Retinyl Palmitate

Extraction or Production Process

Retinyl palmitate is a retinyl ester formed through the esterification of retinol (Vitamin A1) with palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid. This process enhances the stability of vitamin A, making it more resistant to oxidation and easier to formulate into cosmetic products and supplements.

Industrial Production Process:

1. Retinol Extraction: Retinol is derived from animal liver, fish oils, or synthesized from β-carotene (pro-vitamin A).
2. Esterification Reaction: Retinol is reacted with palmitic acid (C16:0) in the presence of an acid catalyst to form retinyl palmitate.
3. Purification & Stabilization: The product is purified and stabilized with antioxidants (e.g., tocopherols) to prevent degradation.

Sources

• Natural sources: Found in animal liver, fish oils, and dairy products.
• Synthetic production: Commonly manufactured for skincare formulations and dietary supplements.

Country of Origin

Used globally, with major production centers in the United States, Europe, and Asia.

Function

• Antioxidant: Helps neutralize free radicals, protecting the skin from oxidative damage.
• Skin Conditioning: Supports skin hydration and barrier function.
• Precursor to Retinoic Acid: Converts into retinol → retinaldehyde → retinoic acid for anti-aging and skin renewal benefits.

Properties

• Higher Stability: More stable than retinol, making it less prone to oxidation and easier to formulate.
• Requires Enzymatic Conversion: Must undergo three enzymatic transformations to become biologically active retinoic acid.
• Lower Irritation Potential: Compared to retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid, retinyl palmitate is the gentlest option, ideal for sensitive skin.

Enzymatic Conversion to Retinoic Acid

Retinyl Palmitate itself is not biologically active and must be converted in the skin to Retinoic Acid, the active form that binds to retinoic acid receptors (RARs) to trigger cellular renewal.

Step-by-Step Conversion Pathway:

1. Hydrolysis (Retinyl Ester Hydrolase Enzyme):
   • Retinyl Palmitate (C36H60O2) → Retinol (C20H30O)
   • This reaction occurs in the epidermis, catalyzed by retinyl ester hydrolase enzymes.
     
     
2. Oxidation (Retinol Dehydrogenase Enzyme):
   • Retinol (C20H30O) → Retinaldehyde (C20H28O)
   • Retinol dehydrogenase (RDH) enzymes catalyze this step.
     
     
3. Final Oxidation (Retinaldehyde Dehydrogenase Enzyme):
   • Retinaldehyde (C20H28O) → Retinoic Acid (C20H28O2)
   • Retinaldehyde dehydrogenase (RALDH) enzymes complete the conversion.

Since retinyl palmitate requires three enzymatic steps to convert to active retinoic acid, it is far less potent than retinol, retinaldehyde, or tretinoin (retinoic acid itself).

Benefits

• Gentle exfoliation and skin renewal without the irritation associated with stronger retinoids.
• Improves skin tone and texture over time with consistent use.
• Supports collagen production, reducing fine lines and wrinkles.
• Minimal irritation, making it ideal for beginners and sensitive skin.

Contraindications and Precautions

• Slow to show results due to multiple conversion steps.
• Less potent than retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid.
• Photosensitivity Risk: Increases UV sensitivity, requiring daily sunscreen use.
• UV Degradation: Must be stored in opaque, airtight packaging to prevent breakdown.