Retinoic Acid
Common Name
Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin)
INCI
Tretinoin
Extraction or Production Process
Tretinoin is synthetically produced from retinol derivatives through a controlled oxidation process. Unlike retinol and retinaldehyde, retinoic acid does not naturally occur in food sources and is only available in pharmaceutical formulations.
Synthetic Production Process:
- Oxidation of retinol to retinaldehyde
- Further oxidation of retinaldehyde to retinoic acid
- Purification and stabilization to ensure bioavailability in topical formulations
This controlled process ensures consistent potency and stability, as retinoic acid is inherently highly reactive and unstable in its raw form.
Sources
- Synthesized in pharmaceutical laboratories for topical and oral medical applications
- Used in prescription acne and anti-aging treatments
- Found in combination with other active ingredients in dermatological formulations
Country of Origin
Tretinoin is widely produced in North America, Europe, and Asia, where it is used for medical dermatology and cosmetic treatments.
Function
- Directly binds to retinoic acid receptors (RARs), influencing gene expression in skin cells
- Promotes rapid cell turnover, improving texture, tone, and acne
- Increases collagen synthesis, reducing fine lines, wrinkles, and sun damage
Properties
- Most potent retinoid, requiring no conversion
- Highly effective for acne, hyperpigmentation, and photoaging
- Can cause significant irritation, dryness, and peeling, especially for first-time users
How Retinoic Acid Works at the Cellular Level
Unlike retinol or retinaldehyde, which must be enzymatically converted, tretinoin is already biologically active. This means it immediately binds to retinoic acid receptors (RARs) in the skin, triggering a cascade of cellular changes.
Mechanism of Action:
- Increases epidermal turnover
- Speeds up the shedding of dead skin cells
- Helps unclog pores and prevent acne formation
- Stimulates collagen production
- Enhances fibroblast activity, leading to thicker, firmer skin
- Reduces fine lines and wrinkles
- Regulates pigmentation
- Inhibits tyrosinase, reducing melanin production
- Helps fade hyperpigmentation, sunspots, and post-inflammatory discoloration
- Reduces inflammation
- Modulates immune responses, decreasing redness and irritation
- Beneficial for acne, rosacea, and inflammatory skin conditions
Benefits
- Clinically proven to reduce fine lines, acne, and pigmentation
- Increases collagen production, improving skin elasticity and firmness
- Fast-acting compared to retinol or retinaldehyde
- Reduces acne by normalizing sebum production and preventing clogged pores
Contraindications and Precautions
- Requires medical supervision due to its high irritation potential
- Not available over-the-counter; requires a prescription in many countries
- Not recommended for use during pregnancy, as retinoic acid is a known teratogen
- Causes severe sun sensitivity — must be used with broad-spectrum sunscreen or preferably applied during the evening routines
